Travel: Clontarf Castle in Dublin's leafy suburbs is definitely one for keeps

Clontarf Castle Hotel can trace its history back to the 12th centuryClontarf Castle Hotel can trace its history back to the 12th century
Clontarf Castle Hotel can trace its history back to the 12th century
​​To stay at Clontarf Castle Hotel is to wake up in one of Ireland’s fascinating feats of history.

Situated in Dublin’s leafy suburbs, and with a history stretching back to the 12th century, the four-star hotel is the stuff of medieval dreams, with grand turrets, suits of armour, heavy drapes, a banqueting hall, ivy-draped walls and four-poster beds.

The fairy tale begins as my family and I arrive at ornamental gatehouse, then enter the leafy driveway to catch our first glimpse of the impressive façade, with proud stone lions standing keeping guard.

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The first castle on the grounds, of which no trace remains, was built in 1172. The Victorians rebuilt the ancient castle, and today the baronial theme continues into the dramatic, dark-wood, stone-walled, soaring lobby, where we are met by the wonderfully friendly reception staff and concierge – a mine of local information.

The oak-pannelled Knights Bar in Clontarf Castle HotelThe oak-pannelled Knights Bar in Clontarf Castle Hotel
The oak-pannelled Knights Bar in Clontarf Castle Hotel

Over the centuries, Clontarf Castle has attracted a long list of auspicious guests.

The great composer Handel was a frequent visitor during his stay in Dublin for the premiere of Messiah in 1742.

Clontarf Castle was painted by Turner, although he never visited (it is said to be his only Irish subject).

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And it is referred to by Phil Lynott of the Irish rock group Thin Lizzy in his song ‘The Friendly Ranger at Clontarf Castle’.

Before reopening as a hotel in 1997 it was for many years a popular cabaret venue; comedian Tom O'Connor released live recordings made there, and Dana was crowned Queen of Cabaret at the Castle in 1968, prior to winning the 1970 Eurovision Song Contest.

Today the hotel mixes ancient and contemporary, with bright rooms that are fashionably and comfortably furnished. It also boasts an extraordinary collection of paintings and artworks, so that it’s almost like ambling round your own private gallery.

You can follow the castle’s art trail to discover intriguing pieces bought from key galleries representing established and up and coming artists from Ireland and all over the world, such as Saatchi Art, Artfinder and London Art, as you stroll through the open and hidden areas of the hotel.

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Standard rooms are full of character, with looks ranging from heritage to more contemporary. Our spacious interconnecting family rooms were decorated with bright, colourful wallpaper, gorgeous and amazingly comfortable beds and lovely views across the hotel grounds.

There’s all mod cons with wi-fi, air-conditioning, room service, safes and mineral water.

A beautiful en suite bathroom comes with glass artworks on the walls, plus lovely toiletries, made by Northern Irish firm, Field Day.

We dined like lords in Knights Bar, the jewel in the crown of this extraordinary 12th century castle. It’s a beautiful space with polished wooden floors, warm leather banquettes, open fireplaces and an ornate pitched ceiling. The food is out of this world, whilst the service is impeccable.

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In recent years Knights Bar has become a stalwart of the Dublin gastro bar scene, delivering exceptional dishes created by executive head chef, Paul Devoy, using only the very best of local produce, of which there is no shortage thanks to the hotel’s proximity to the north Dublin coastline and Howth, the home of Dublin fresh fish and seafood.

We enjoyed Beech Smoked Salmon, Seafood Chowder, Boile Goat’s Cheese, Asparagus and Forest Mushrooms on Toast, Seared Atlantic Salmon, Thai Yellow Curry, Forest Fruit Eton Mess and Warm Chocolate Brownie. Portions are ample, as are the flavours.

A self-service breakfast is the Fahrenheit Restaurant, which was recently awarded its second AA Rosette for culinary excellence within Ireland). The atmosphere is majestic with striking wooden beams, stained glass windows and panelled walls. Besides the usual breakfast fare, my kids were particularly taken by the huge hunk of natural honeycomb on offer.

Clontarf Castle is located in an excellent, quiet location, a 10-minute drive from Dublin city centre. The promenade is a five-minute stroll away and there are a number of good local cafés and restaurants.

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Also, nearby at 15 Marino Crescent, is the small, Georgian-style house where literary legend, Bram Stoker, author of Dracula, was born in 1847.

We visited nearby Bull Island, a low lying, dune covered sand spit, home to two private golf courses -The Royal Dublin and St Anne’s –and Dollymount Beach.

The beautiful St Anne’s Park is also very close to the hotel. It is part of a former 500 acre estate assembled by members of the Guinness family, descendants of Sir Arthur Guinness, founder of the famous brewery. Features include an artificial pond and a number of follies, a fine collection of trees, world famous Rose Garden, a playground, parklands walks and recreational facilities including golf.

Slightly further afield is the village of Howth, with its picturesque harbour, pretty beaches and wildflower-covered sea cliffs. Walking about the waterfront you could be lucky enough (we weren’t) to spot the resident seals poking their heads up between the docked boats. But we did enjoy lungfuls of fresh sea air and delicious fish and chips.

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Whether you want to kick back and relax or use it as a base to explore, with centuries-old historical pedigree, oodles of character, sea air and seclusion from the city’s bustle, Clontarf castle hotel is the stuff of dreams.

​*Clontarf Castle's summer package is called Summer Reign, an overnight stay with breakfast and dinner and a bottle of wine and chocolates in the room on arrival, starting from €259 based on two people sharing.

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